This circuit topology is used with low power battery applications, and is aimed at the ability of a boost converter to 'steal' the remaining energy in a battery. Quite by accident, I got a standard joule thief to produce 100v from a 1.5v cell with about 50 turns of wire, a 2N2222, and a 500ohm resistor. This way you save yourself a little work and wire. Adding a joule thief won't help with the overdriving and the rest of the balance of the circuit goes to pot too. An unregulated boost converter is used as the voltage increase mechanism in the circuit known as the 'Joule thief', based on blocking oscillator concepts. If you use the original joule thief design, add more turns of thinner wire, and choose a good value for the resistor, you can get the same voltage range. For powering LED directly from 3 cells, they'll be overdriven to begin with, then reach their design voltage, then fade away. Now, there are some products which cheap out on their design and waste capacity, but that rather depends on the circuit. Each chemistry and manufacturer has its own curve, but by and large, almost 100% of the capacity is used up in a well designed circuit which cuts off at 1v. You shouldn't let it near sensitive electronics, it's really producing a load of gnarly spikes, not nice DC.Īdditionally, cells don't discharge linearly. Excellent channel for beginners, and shockingly undercelebrated as he doesn't do all the self promotion stuff.Īnyway, the joule thief is a really nasty hacky circuit acting as a terrible boost converter of sorts. Each chemistry and manufacturer has its own curve, but by and large, almost 100 of the. Additionally, cells dont discharge linearly. You shouldnt let it near sensitive electronics, its really producing a load of gnarly spikes, not nice DC. The designer of the eponymous Joule Thief is Clive Mitchell, aka BigClive on YouTube. Anyway, the joule thief is a really nasty hacky circuit acting as a terrible boost converter of sorts.
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